So once again - why use a digital iron? And if the iron still smokes, turn down the setting a little. Leaving aside the structural assembly of the ski, and focusing on the base material, we've got another set of concerns. We're only going to get the wax a handful of hundredths of a mm into the base material. With cold wax, I'd shoot for and only a cm or so behind the iron should be melted as you move. When we look at the act of ironing wax, there is a mighty fine line between burning the base and overheating core. I have seen it with cheap irons because I don't think they keep accurate temps and if you take them apart it is surpricing how much wax gets inside the iron. Maybe in the future consider picking up a quality Swix or Star iron Also, after the pass on the skis, I can note some liquid black residue on the iron very small probably equpvalent to a few drops, but very dark. So is this normal or should I be afraid of damaging my base or sealing it? There are a number of things I don't agree with in the quoted article.
RaceWax offers ski and snowboard wax for racers, tools and tuning kits that If your iron isn't calibrated, what you dial in may not be the exact temperature of. Everybody understands the importance of good thermostatic control.
Thoughts of Proper Wax Iron Temperature Swix, Star and Ski*Go) have extremely appropriate iron temperature recommendations for their glide waxes. (Left) Swix wax iron and low fluoro waxes for warm (8) and cold (6) snow more widely than wax-specific irons and can easily be set at too hot a temperature.
All of that information sets the stage for an examination of the type of damage we regularly see to skis when they arrive for grinding.
Since you have an iron with a cheap thermostat, you have to rely on how much of the wax is melted behind the ski.
Ski Wax Iron Temperature Settings
So a hotter iron running quickly seems to be the best approach, and is certainly the approach that I've gravitated toward in my own work. But why spend hundreds of dollars on a digital iron? Remember the fact that after your skis have been ground, saturated and hardened, the base of the ski is already hard enough.
Leaving aside the structural assembly of the ski, and focusing on the base material, we've got another set of concerns. Rub wax all over the iron??
Aktionskarten phase 10 instructions
|But why spend hundreds of dollars on a digital iron?
Most people do drops of wax, but I touch the point of the iron to the base and do lines of wax.
Video: Kuu wax iron temperature settings Wax Iron VS Regular Iron - What One is Better??
They can vary widely at the same time. It certainly seems applicable under the circumstances. This is why we use very long saturation periods - we've cooked skis for several days at times, and usually go for at least 12 hours. The same applies at the top of its range. There are probably also some good youtube videos on it as well.
C Swix use a decent wax iron that holds a fairly constant temperature (+ or - 8*F). irons. We tested with the temperatures set to F, F, and F.
Ron is the President of KUUsport Mfg. Ltd., patented electric waxing iron.
Thoughts of Proper Wax Iron Temperature NordicSkiRacer
known as the “Wax-Guru” and took particular pride in tuning his and others equipment. .
Video: Kuu wax iron temperature settings Ironing in the Wax
Wax Curing: Cooling the wax and base at room temperature is fine for. Check out the Briko-Maplus Waxing Manual for great waxing tips from Iron temperature settings vary from one iron manufacturer to the other so some.
So I agree with the article that you should run the iron down the ski and never reverse direction. In the heatbox the saturation is a function of time.
Kuu Iron Maiden Waxing Iron MEC
These same people are probably damaging there base with warm waxes as well. I can't believe my iron is wrongly calibrated because the temperature seems to be just about the minimum required to melt the wax properly This shouldn't be happening although that seems high for a wax of that hardness.
When I looked at the manufacturers instructions they said it is not wax.
The wax you mentioned that has a temp range down to dC will still work fairly similarly at dC.
Kuu wax iron temperature settings
|Last year Nick Brown said something along the lines of "the less you work on your skis the faster they'll be".
Since you have an iron with a cheap thermostat, you have to rely on how much of the wax is melted behind the ski. I would hate to send someone out on skis that glide poorly in cold conditions because they are using a warm wax like Toko Red. As long at the iron is moving fairly quickly and it's loaded with wax, I've never noticed an issue.
I have 2, the regular digital and the heavy powder version.
Temperature sensor. A digital temperature sensor allows Tools4Boards Manual Hard Nylon Brush.
Available. Warm up the iron to a medium heat and then hold the wax against the the board for approx minutes, until it has cooled down and set.
There are probably also some good youtube videos on it as well.
Cold Glide Wax Application
I routinely use FW Teal claimed to work best below 15F and similarly hard waxes from Solda, which would be about a 4. Rub wax all over the iron?? I have watched a lot of videos recently to make sure I wax properly, and I do not think I did something wrong. Done properly, it will take about 18 - 20 seconds to pass the iron down the length of the ski.
I only own Fischers. Whereas in the 20s if the wax is a little too cold it's not big deal since the snow is usually moderately fast anyway.
Kuu wax iron temperature settings
|Also remember that you should largely be waxing for snow temp vs air temp.
So I agree with the article that you should run the iron down the ski and never reverse direction. So even if you slide the iron across the entire width of the ski, the center swells and you can only iron "half" of the ski with each pass. An iron that is too cool will not work quickly enough and will encourage me to overheat the core of the ski. If you watch most people wax, the iron goes back and forth, and it's hard to estimate how much heat each part of the ski is getting.
If you have a foam core ski, you have to be more careful. So with improper wax, I guess this is not going to help.